Check the display. Ask a helper to step on the brake pedal while you check the lights from the rear. If no lights appear, check the fuse that connects the brake lights.
Dec 18, 2016 This feature is not available right now. Please try again later. 1 Bear ARBST 42-210 Alternator Reulator, Battery Starter / Tester. 1 Bear ARBST 42-210. Please follow the instructions there. Payment in full is due not later.
The owners manual will show the location of the fuse box and which fuse is for the brake lights. Pull out the fuse and look at the wire in the central window. If the wire is broken, replace the fuse. Make sure the new fuse is not blown, and carries the same amperage. Take note of lights that are out, if any are working. The problem may be cured by replacing the bulb in a brake light that's out.
A burned out bulb has a broken filament and a dark brown spot on one side. Check the owners manual for bulb type. Check the circuit if replacement bulbs and fuses do not restore the lights. Find the wiring diagram in the vehicle assembly manual. The circuit for the brake lights runs from the battery to the fuse, to the pedal switch, to a connection plug, to the lights. The circuit has to be checked with a volt tester at all points. Check the battery power and the light on your volt tester.
Turn the ignition key far enough to activate the electrical systems. Turn on the lights to check for battery power.
If the battery has power, ues it to check the volt tester. Put the black lead (the ground) from the volt tester on the negative battery terminal. Briefly touch the red tester light on the positive terminal. The light on the volt tester should flash brightly.
Test the wiring to the fuse. Clip the ground wire to solid metal near the fuse. Touch the light tip to both sides of the fuse. Both should light the tester. If neither side lights, the wire between the battery and fuse is bad.
If only one side lights, the fuse is blown. Test the switch and wiring. Touch the light tip of the tester to both terminals on the brake pedal switch without putting any pressure on the pedal. One should carry power and the other should not. When both show power, the switch is stuck and the brake lights are always on.
If neither shows power, the wiring between the fuse and the switch is bad. Now check both switch terminals while the pedal is depressed. Both sides should light the tester. If not, the switch is bad. Check the connection plug. Unplug the connection and refer to the vehicle manual to identify the brake light wire.
Touch the tester light on the brake light wire at the inner socket on the battery side. If the tester lights, the power is flowing to this point. If not, the wire between the plug and the pedal switch is bad. Check the socket. Plug in the connector plug and remove the bulb. Touch the contact inside the socket. If the tester lights, the socket is good.
The socket and wire running to the plug should be replaced if the tester doesn't light. Check the bulb with the ground wire. The bulb must be in its socket. The ground wire running to the socket should be black or brown. Stab the tester through the insulation. If the tester lights, the bulb is good.
Replace the bulb if it doesn't light. Check the ground wire. Remove some of the insulation around the ground wire. Twist one end of the extra wire around the exposed ground wire.
Touch the other end to a solid piece of metal. If the brake light comes on, the ground wire is bad. Oct 13, 2014. Model 3210 is not compatible with your vehicle.
You would need a newer Model Tester, and the 23104 adapter. 3257, 3258, or Allscan would be compatible with your 1987 GM Vehicle. Most other competitors testers of the same vintage were more expensive, but time is a great equalizer in the used market.GM Data streams changed every year and required constant updating by the scan tool manufacturers.
Starting in 1996 with OBDII, testers became easier to use and more generic, however it can still difficult to keep of with the proprietary data streams. Jan 22, 2011. Almost feel bad answering this one but if you have low oil pressure (verified by an external mechanical test gauge, not the one on your dashboard) Likely you replaced the oil pump but did not check the bearings on the crankshaft for wear. It is highly unusual for an oil pump to fail.
Most often low pressure is caused by bearing wear. A pump can be damaged by ingesting debris from a failing bearing and should be changed, but only after the bearings have been replaced, otherwise you are fixing the result, not the cause of the problem. Mar 15, 2010.
If it is electrical oil pressure sensor I would start there. The best way to see if you have a major problem is to use a mechanical oil pressure tester. Take off the oil pressure sensor and put the mechanical tester on. The tester should come with a Gage. If it comes within your trucks oil pressure range than all is fine and replace the sending unit and see if that don't help your problem.If the tester runs high then the oil pump is bad or your cam-bearings could be the problem. But with cam-bearings you would usually get a low reading.
Mar 14, 2009.
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